The Black metalized monofilm , produced in the US, completely blocks the suns UV-Rays. The damaging effect of the UV, which normally burns transparent monofilm, is thus eliminated. The added metalized particles help to reflect heat from the sun and added thickness of the material guarantees durability. The overall look of the sails will therefore not change with time and usage.
After 252 hour sun exposure, the UV resistant window material fades only 10%. Another inovative progress made by Point-7 in the spirit of delivering the best quality products by supplying sails that will stay new with time.
All Point-7 sails can be used on rdm masts except for the AC-1 and AC-K (the 5.8m AC-K can be used with a 400 rdm mast).
The sail will feel lighter in handling. The softer mast will better absorb chop and waves for more control in stronger winds. In light wind, the rig will feel lighter to pump to get on plane.
Yes, for certain. All masts fit Point-7 sails. A 100% efficiency is obtained by using Point-7 masts.
Sails are printed on both sides. Battens are alternate for performance reasons. There is no right or wrong side. The sail is perfectly symmetric; your choice. Sails are rolled from port tack side as it makes it normally easier to insert the mast.
Rinsing the sail from salt and sand will help the product to last longer.
Yes sure. 100% of the monofilm is UV resistant. Though, keeping the sail out of the sun when not in use, does help the sail and mast in staying new with time.
Every single individual sail piece can be replaced in order to make the sail be back like at the origin. No printing is used on the monofilm.
Standard battens can be used to replace any broken ones. In case you wont find them, we have them available.
Yes they do. It’s more important to have the correct curve, rather than a higher carbon percentage mast with the wrong curve for the sail.
The masts are all developed with the same technology, using the same carbon, and materials. Therefore, the difference of the carbon quantity is the only difference. This is why the weight of the three masts, in the same length, does not show much difference. The difference between the masts on the water is the speed of the reflex. The higher the carbon percentage, the faster the mast response in the gust and over the chop. Therefore, the feeling of the rig, will be lighter on the higher percentage mast, even if the lower percentage carbon mast from Point-7, are offering high performance and will satisfy the needs.
All the masts are made in Italy!
All sails are developed on Point-7 masts.
- AC-1 can be used on C80 and C100, and only SDM masts.
- AC-X and AC-K can be used on C60, C80, C100 masts. AC-X can fit both sdm and rdm masts from 6.5 up, even if the ideal would be the SDM. The 5.2 and 5.8 AC-X only rig on the rdm masts. The AC-K rigs on the SDM in all sizes, except the 5.8, which uses the rdm400.
- AC-F can use both SDM and RDM mast in all carbon percentage.
- All wave sails and freestyle sail fit only the RDM mast. Most pro’s use the 80% carbon masts, while the freestylers also the 100%.
The curves are printed on the mast itself. Each mast size has a different curve. The shorter masts having softer bases and stiffer tops to allow more comfort and stability in strong winds, while the longer masts are more hard bases and softer tops to allow more breathing of the sails and power in light wind. We could call it a progressive curve: the mast is designed to have a curve which can express the best performance according to the wind and water condition it will be used in. The number, which starts with the 6? is the base curve, the central number below is the imcs, the lowest number starting with a 7? is the curve of the top.
You can, but the mast will bend if left lots of days in the sail rigged. This bending is normal, and will not alter the performance. The mast will slowly with time go back straight and will not break. For long life of the mast, it is recommended to de-rig the sail when not in use. Alternatively, to take out completely the downhaul so that the mast stays in the sail at a perfect straight position.
You can, and if the temperatures are not extremely hot, or it’s windy, the mast does not suffer. Do not put a full hot mast into cold water. Let it cool down with the wind while sailing if it was left in the sun for a long time. The sudden change of temperature is not the best for the long life of the mast. It is advised to keep the mast in the shade when not in use.
The mast warranty is for 6 months, if it will not be registered on our site. So please do register, so that the warranty will be 2 years for the C80 and C60, 1 year for the C100.
Mast break from two main causes. The first being a defective product due to imperfection in the manufacturing or material. A high-level carbon mast is a handcrafted, almost a custom product. The second being from improper use. If the mast breaks from being defective, due to point one, it will break in less than five times on the water, and often just by rigging the sail the first time. If this does not happen, than the breakage is normally caused by improper use, otherwise it would have been broken before. This improper use maybe from not inserting the cams correctly, tightening too much the boom head, catapults, dropping the mast on the ground, too many hours of sun in really hot days with no wind, crashes, shorebreakes, sand banks. If the top part of the mast breaks in the area from the ferrule, it is often from not inserting the base properly to the top. If the top breaks at the tip, it is probably from the top getting stuck into reefs or sand banks, even in smaller waves. It is possible that a mast does not break the day it suffers an accident, but the next session you will rig it, it could break, as the crashed area might be put under stress, from different direction than the previous time rigged.
There might be dirt or sand on the ferrule. Rinse before forcing to be inserted. Sometimes you will not see the dirt which covers the ferrule due to thin earth particles that are not visible.
Yes, it protects it during transport, which is one of the main causes, which could damage your mast. Insert the mast in the bag, only when it’s dry from rinsing.
You can, and according to how close the mast curves are similar, the efficiency of the rig will be varying.
- Where there is no Point-7 distribution network in your country, Point-7 offers an online shop. Register on the shop and simply select the items you would like to receive. You can pay with paypal or credit card.
- Through our selected dealers at this link.
If you need any technical advice, our operators will be happy to support you in solving all your doubts to help you choose the right gear for your windsurfing needs. If you are having problems with rigging or tuning, and our videos and rigging guides are not enough, don’t hesitate to ask us directly at our contacts.
Spare parts are always available at the Point-7 headquarters. Contact your local dealer to supply you with the parts needed.
Send us a mail, and we will organize that you can find the wished gear at your local store.
We are happy to help out in no time. Refer at all times to the contact from where you have purchased the gear. Remember to register your mast and sail after purchase to extend your warranty and to keep the invoice, in case of claims.
Send us a mail and we will take as gold any feedback!
One of the Point 7 success ‘s reason is the unique geometry of the sections and the NEW exclusive INSERTE CYLINDRICAL FERRULE TECHNOLOGY.
Obviously, the mast is conical. Bottom and top sections are produced separately, with different mandrels and different layups. Point 7 masts’ sections are conical, but with a CYLINDRICAL portion in the connection area. That’s the key point. We insert in this area a super light and strong T900 fibers exclusive FERRULE, perfectly in contact with the inner diameter of the mast.
The T900 ferrule is strongly glued inside the bottom section, but it can and must move and bend inside the mast, naturally following the mast’s bend curve, without any flat section.
The exclusive T900 ultra-light fibers ferrule improves the reflex of the mast of more than 20%, permits to spread the loading forces along the entire mast length, makes the sections interchangeable, and gives to the rider a unique feeling of extra power under control.
When derigged, the mast may looks slightly bent, but in reality, it’s the T900 ferrule that has been compressed toward the inner mast’s wall during the riding. But no panic, the mast will work perfectly when rigged again.
Most of the successful “new school sails brand” are joining this exclusive technology, race proven with several positive feedbacks from top riders.
460 = length
100 = carbon content
63.5 = mast base % curve
25 = imcs Central stiffness.
75.5 = mast top % curve
There is no other reason why the top of the mast gets stuck in the base. It’s dirt in between. Always make sure the top of the mast and the ferrule are fully clean. The top needs to be washed all the way inside as the wind could blow dirt and send all the way up. It could feel clean, but as you sail, the dirt will fall from the top, and fall in between the to and ferrule. This will than get the 2 parts stuck together.
- What not to do when stuck: When trying to open the mast with too many people, they don’t pull it out straight but the rotation applied to open it, makes the ferrule rotate at a different angle to the top of the mast. This creates even more dirt (liquid, sea water with dirt and carbon which gets grinded off), and the friction makes the mast not get hot, but boil. You are not even able to touch it as it burns! This is how they even get more stuck as when it’s start boiling hot the material react and the ferrule gets wider in
- What to do when it gets stuck: Max 4 people
1 – Shake the the mast hard so that the dirt gets broken in the ferrule in smaller pieces. This is done by holding in 2 people the 2 ends of the mast. Rotate the mast 90°left 90 degrees right. The mast will open a bit, it’s important that the rotation is done by pulling straight and not only rotating, and when rotating trying to keep the 2 parts on a straight line. At one point the mast from opening, will get stuck again. No need to rotate it anymore with extra power. It will get hot and get damaged.
2 – So once is stuck a second time, it needs to be shaken again, and automatically the top and bottom will reach a straight position between the 2 parts, so you can start repeating point 1. And this needs to be done till the mast is not out. Every time it gets stuck let it rest, otherwise it can get too hot even like this, so it’s than impossible to open it. DON’T GET IT HOT. COOL IT DOWN EACH TIME IN THE WATER
3 – If just power is applied, without the shaking, without pulling it and rotating it in a straight position, by letting it get hot, it gets even worse stuck.
4 – Remember that if it was stuck, it was only because the mast was not clean in the inside. No other reason.